We are thankful for the time that we have had in Tokyo. Not only because we have been able to spend more time in just Tokyo than most try to cram all of Japan in during one vacation.
We know that we are blessed.
But the timing, completely driven by the sail date of our ship, means that we arrived in Tokyo just in time for two of our favorite festivals. And time for one that we didn’t get to attend while we were last here two decades ago.
Our first Saturday here, just six days after arriving, we were standing on the street in Ikeburo, one of the many cities that make up Tokyo, just a couple of subway stops, a transfer (through the busiest train station in the world), then a few stops on the train.
We were watching the first day of competition of the annual Yosakoi, the second half of the celebration of autumn called Fukuro Matsuri. The first part was held the week before we arrived.
Yosakoi is best described as a synchronized dance performed by teams ranging in size from 30-60, with ages from 9-70. It’s high energy, with the individual team uniforms a blend of traditional and modern styles to accommodate the dancing, which is done to the driving beat of taiko drums.
To me, it’s the sound of Japan.
Here’s an example from last year, although the taiko do not feature prominently. I didn’t have time to video, as I was too busy shooting the big camera (200/2.8L, for the details, natch), which means that I didn’t have time for pics on the phone to share here. Those pics will be revealed in a few months or so. Even though it forces you over to YouTube, it’s worth it.
I even started looking for my 20+ year old pics from the last Yosakoi that we attended. Alas, my google-fu fails me.
And we have other things to talk about.
The next day, a couple of subway stops the other direction, and we were in the midst of a celebration of cats. In pure Japanese style.
Kagaruzaka’s Bakeneko is a celebration of cats in all forms. The bakaneko is one of the many Japanese yokai (supernatural creatures), of which cats are included. They arrive in people’s lives to either protect or bewitch them.
Sometimes on the same day.
This was a first for us, as it started in 2009, after we last left. On this day, folks from all around showed up in cat costumes or paid to be made up to look like cats. Or none of the above, just showing up for a good time (like us).
A bit of action —
As you can see, there’s quite the affinity with cats. Those that brought their actual cats were rock stars, surrounded by fawning fans all jostling to get a picture.
It was quite curious, actually.
That was the weekend. Monday was a national holiday, Health Day, so the events were activity related.
As if the dancing and parading weren’t enough.
In the morning, we watched the live broadcast coverage of Collegiate Ekiden, a marathon distance relay race where every team member runs a different distance. Yet the teams finish in close to world-record times. It’s a fascinating watch.
Yes, I say so.
Then we took a short walk to Ana Hachimingu Shrine, mentioned in the last post, to watch Yabusame, the Japanese martial art of archery on horseback.
You might recognize the featured image from the last post on Temples and Shrines —
Again, my focus was on the big camera, so not many pics here.
Once the parade was done and we were set up in the park across the street, the competition began. As expected, there was a lot of pomp and circumstance before the event, bit once they got going, it was a simple format.
Each archer got their steed up to a full run, drew an arrow, aimed at their target, released, and raced to the next one. The first target was less than 30 meters from the start, so it was very quick. The second and third targets were closer to 60 meters apart, but by then the horse was at a full run, so it was seconds between each target.
The arrows were much larger than modern western arrows. Over 3 feet long and as thick as a thumb, they carry power. Enough that it was easy to imagine the Samurai battles, where an archer’s arrow would pass clean through an opponent.
The plywood targets didn’t have a chance. As long as they were hit.
This was the second (middle) target of one of the runs —
Coincidentally, this park is across the street from Waseda University, whose team won the Collegiate Ekiden the day before.
But all of these were a warmup for our main event, the Kawagoe Festival, held since 1648. We first attended 20+ years ago with 日本の女神 (Japanese Goddess) and she would attend with us again this year.
We would be joined again by our German friends as we introduced them to the festival.
Each neighborhood in Kawagoe presents a float carried on the shoulders of community members. The floats are energetically paraded through the streets and when two (or more) floats meet or cross paths, they engage in head-to-head competition of drums, flutes, and masked dancers.
Think of it as the original “battle of bands.”
Naturally, the crowds egg them on.
We arrived mid-afternoon to catch the end of the parade as the floats moved around town, stopping to pay respects at each of the shrines.
There were 23 floats in all, meandering through the city. All quite choreographed, I’m sure, so that they meet at the right places, like the major intersection in the video above.
We didn’t see all 23, as they were constantly on the move. So after a few of the battles, we beat feet for the train station to beat the rush. That worked well, as we were able to secure seats for the hour+ ride back. That felt good after 7+ miles of walking.
Leave a Reply